Siberian Elm
UlmusPumila
Style: are usually grown as informal upright trees. They are also grown in groves or group plantings, root on or over rock, and slanting
Placement: Full sun
Watering: Elms like a lot of water through the growing season, but don’t like wet feet. Use a well-draining soil. Most Elms don’t lose all of their leaves in the winter, although they are dormant. Be cautious not to overwater during dormancy.
Wiring: Young Elm branches can be wired, but you need to check daily for wire biting in. I prefer to use a guide wire with an aquarium hose piece protecting the branch. Then, I move the hose piece a little bit each week when watering. Doing this will prevent wire scaring.
Pruning: Elms can be heavily pruned in winter. Root pruning should be moderate. Prune when leaves are 4-6 in number back to two or one node before branch elongation begins. On the smaller leaf varieties, allow to grow to 10-20 leaves and then prune back to 5-10. For good ramification, it requires pruning often.
INSECT/DISEASE: Resistant to most insects and diseases. It can get red spider mites, bark beetles, webworms, aphids, and caterpillars. In our area, watch for fungus, generally showing as leaf spots, and treat with a systemic fungicide during rainy periods.
REPOT: Best just as news buds are appearing in spring.
FERTILIZE: Any well-balanced fertilizer through the growing season.
Additional Reading:
Bonsai Times (Club collection)
Elm: #34, #51 (great issue for Elms), and #54,
These two trees were dug up from my grow plot after just 3 or 4 years in the ground and were first given to me by “Coach Dikta” of PSBS at a meeting when they were little seedlings rescued from his yard. They were allowed to grow wild and trimmed heavily right before being moved to these grow boxes.
The following picture is the top tree by the end of the summer of the same year. Notice how much ramification can be achieved with 4 trimmings!
